Tuesday, July 2, 2013

Stumbling into Austria (or: Relatives to the Rescue)


I’m sort of a control freak. I tend to plan out everything, obsessively creating lists and timetables. So when it came to planning my eight-week stint in Europe with Faeth, I decided the best thing to do to preserve my sanity would be to loosen up and take a more relaxed approach. I think I may have swung a little too far towards the “extremely laid-back” side, though, since we didn’t book any hostels or really make any concrete plans after visiting the relatives. This worked out all right in Cologne, a smaller city that’s not quite so touristy, but it ended very badly when we arrived in Munich and couldn’t find a place to stay for the night.

All the hostels were booked, and most of the hotels, too—except the extremely pricey ones. We thought about our position and decided to move on to another, smaller town. We’d wanted to visit the famous Swan Castle—Schloss Neuschwanstein—anyway, so we decided to hop a train closer to that site. The train ride ended up taking about four hours, and we got to view the majestic Alps at sunset—a breathtaking site. It felt like we were riding through a fairytale. But the problem with fairytales is that they’re not real, and we eventually discovered that our idealistic quest was doomed to failure: when we bailed out at 10:00 p.m. in the ritzy tourist town of Lindau, we realized our map was a little off. We were nowhere near Neuschwanstein, and, despite several locals assuring us we could find lodging, there were no hotels available in Lindau, either.

Now we were really in a pickle. We flirted with the idea of taking a night train, just to have a place to stay that wasn’t on the street, but the only night train available was down because of a tree that had fallen on its tracks. The only hotels we could find that were open were way too pricey for two poor college backpackers, and the train station itself closed at 1:30 a.m., so we couldn’t even crash there for the night. It’s a pretty terrible feeling to stand on the road at 10:30 p.m. in a foreign country, where most people don’t even speak your language, and not know where you’re going to sleep.

God was definitely looking out for us when one local suggested walking down the street towards the ritzy hotels. We went into one, desperate enough to pay $100 or more dollars a night just for a bed. This particular hotel was far more expensive than that, but the man at the reception desk was kind enough to call around and find us a hotel that could work—only 126 euro, or roughly $190 dollars. It was way more than the usual $20 we were used to paying for a hostel, but it was a safe place to spend the night for two scared foreign girls. The only catch was that it was across the border in Austria. There wasn’t really anything we could do about it but grab a taxi and add another country to our “have visited” list. We arrived in Austria around 11:00 p.m. and left it the next morning by 10:00… we weren’t even there 12 hours.

The hotel, while very ritzy on the lower level, really wasn’t that luxurious, but we had no complaints as we sank into bed. The next morning, as we used the faulty wi-fi to check out hostels in Munich, we noticed a disheartening pattern: there was nothing available, just like before. We really wanted to visit that city, but we weren’t sure how we could if we still didn’t know where we’d sleep for three days. Instead, we decided the only logical thing to do would be to return to our relatives in Leer. They’d promised us help if we ever needed it, and boy did we need it!

In one day, we managed to go from Austria to northern Germany—12 hours by train roughly. Along the way, we tried to call our relatives, but both our phones stopped working. Luckily, we had Gerda’s business card, so we used train station pay phones to try to get a message through. I was able to leave a voice mail on Ralph’s phone, but I could never connect well with Gerda. We couldn’t find internet access, either, so we started to get a bit nervous: Would anyone be waiting for us at the station? We had their address at least, so we figured if worst came to worst, we’d call a taxi.

We arrived in Leer around 9:00 p.m., later than expected because we’d missed a connection and then the train had been delayed (Germany punctuality, indeed!). To our unspeakable relief, we spotted Frank and Petra, Gerda’s nephew and his girlfriend, waiting for us. As soon as we bailed off the train, I ran into their arms and burst into tears (Faeth was a bit more collected). It turns out they hadn’t really been able to understand my message, so they’d posted relatives in the two stations near Leer and had staked out the area for the past two hours to make sure we wouldn’t be missed. They took us home, fed us our first real meal in the last two days, and calmed us down. I’m still amazed at all their kindness and generosity in rescuing two stranded, clueless and desperate relatives.

Looking back over the whole crazy adventure, I realized two things: first, our family in Germany is unbelievably fantastic. Second, even though it’s good to stay flexible and laid-back, a little bit of planning is probably wiser than just showing up in a foreign city. You’ve got to balance between the two extremes… or you, too, could end up making a 10-hr midnight visit to a unexpected country.

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