Friday, June 28, 2013

Colonge: Pleasant surprises

Sometimes, the best things in life are unexpected. Just look at my trip through Germany with Faeth. When we first started out, we had two main goals: Munich and Berlin. Along the way, we also hoped to see our relatives. In the end, Munich was fun, Berlin was nothing special (sorry to all my German friends!), and the week we spent with our distant cousins was the best time of our whole trip so far.

Cologne was another special surprise.

Faeth and I knew we wanted to see the famous Rhine River when we traveled through Germany. I can’t really say why it’s famous—I’ve just heard of it a dozen times. It was easily on the way to Munich, too, so we decided to take a day’s detour in Cologne. When Gerda and Christoph heard our plans, they suggested visiting the city cathedral as well, which they had done some years before and considered breathtaking.

We arrived in Cologne after about four hours on the train. We had no hostel waiting for us, so that was a bit nerve-wracking, but we were blessed to find one very near the train station. As soon as we’d dropped our stuff off in our room, we hit the streets, heading towards that famous Rhine River.

The famous Rhine River

In order to reach the best walking path along the river, according to our receptionist, we had to cross a huge bridge, and that’s where we stumbled onto our first special surprise. This bridge spanned the whole Rhine, so it was hundreds of feet wide. All along the bridge was a fence that covered the inside and separated the walking path from the trains that also used the bridge. And all along that fence were thousands of locks, each with initials or names carved into them. The story behind the locks might be sappy to some, but to me, it was incredibly sweet: couples would bring a lock with their initials to the bridge, lock it onto the fence, and throw the key into the Rhine to symbolize their everlasting love. Some of these locks had been there for years, while others were only days old. We even got to see a couple loving stick their lock on the fence and throw the key into the river.
A couple puts a lock on the bridge.

When we reached the path along the Rhine, the river wasn’t quite what I expected. It was a muddy brown color, and it honestly didn’t smell that great. In fact, it looked a lot like the good ol’ Hudson back in Wisconsin. But walking along the Rhine with my sister filled me with some sort of indescribable happiness. For the first time, we were on our own, together, in Europe. This was the real start of our European adventure. As I looked at the young woman walking next to me, I was overwhelmed with joy that we could share this experience together. Despite our occasional personality clashes, there is no one I’d rather travel with than my sister Faeth.

But the fun didn’t end there. After we walked along the Rhine, both enjoying the view and enjoying the extreme relaxation of having nowhere else to be, we visited the city cathedral, also known as Cologne Cathedral. It’s huge, and it isn’t even done yet! It’s been in construction for centuries: started in 1248, halted around 1470 and continued in the 1800s. It’s the largest Gothic-style church in northern Europe and has the second-tallest spires and largest façade of any church in the world… and before we showed up in Germany, we hadn’t even heard of it!

The Cologne Cathedral--one of Germany's best-kept secrets!

The inside took your breath away: so much wide, open ceiling, so many glittering stained glass windows, so much intricate stone carving. I understand why some people feel closer to God when they’re standing in giant cathedrals. If you wanted to really push yourself, you could climb the nearly 500 steps to the top of the bell tower. Gerda and Christoph had done it, and we decided if they could, we could. Climbing up the cramped stone tower felt really claustrophobic, but the view of the city was spectacular. We also got to walk around the many giant bells, including St. Peter’s Bell, a gigantic 24-ton bell that’s the largest free-swinging bell in the world.

Looking back over our time in Germany after we left the relatives, I think our visit to Cologne was my favorite part. I guess the moral of the story is: Sometimes you need to be open to surprises. You never know when you’ll find something truly special.

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