In case the background is a bit hazy, here are the
basic details: Operation Overlord was the codename for the Allies’ invasion of
northwestern Europe, with the hopes of driving Germans back to Germany and
eventually winning the war. Operation Neptune was the assault phase of this
plan, which started on D-Day. On June 6, 1944, the Allies launched the largest
amphibious assault in the history of the world, with 160,000 troops from 11
countries (along with members of the French resistance) invading France by
land, sea and air elements. Allied troops crossed the English Channel from
Dover to invade the beaches of Normandy, France and win back precious beach territory
that could be used for ports. By the end of the day, more than 12,000 Allied
troops had been killed but the battle had been won. The invasion at D-Day went
down in history as one of the greatest triumphs of WW2 and in American history,
with men and women displaying incredible courage, ingenuity, determination and
valor.
We visited the cemetery first. After seeing small,
quiet cemeteries like the one in Belleau Wood and the one Geoff manages, it was
strange to see a place so overrun with visitors. I guess in a way, that’s a
good thing; people should come to honor the dead and remember their sacrifices.
On the other hand, the cemetery felt more like a carnival than a memorial, with
teenagers running around in skimpy outfits and groups laughing and joking
amongst themselves. Bored sightseers seemed like they were just checking one
more famous site of their international “to-do” list instead of reflecting on
Normandy’s great cost. It was too crowded and noisy for me to easily stop and
meditate on what I was seeing, those 9,000 white stone grave markers to
commemorate all the heroes who had died for our freedom nearly 70 years ago.
More than 9,000 Americans are buried here
Then we visited Omaha Beach, one of the five main
landing points of the invasion. Here, nearly 45,000 U.S. soldiers stormed through
crashing waves, sandbars, machine gun fire and barbed-wire booty traps to reach
the enemy. Nearly 3,000 of these soldiers were killed in action. When we
arrived at the beach, it wasn’t quite what I expected. There were two monuments
built to commemorate the Allied effort, but otherwise it just looked like a
beach. People were running around in bathing suits, surfing and swimming. I
suppose you can’t close off a whole beach in remembrance, but I’d feel strange
frolicking around a site where 3,000 soldiers had died in bloody battle half a
century ago. Looking out over the gray waves, we could see the hazy outline of
England on the horizon. It must have been pretty intense to board a ship with
your comrades, sail 20 miles in the dark early morning, and tumble out into the
chilly ocean at 6:30 a.m. to run into hostile, unknown territory while all
around you other soldiers were being mowed down. I don’t know what drives men
to advance at that point, when death is all around you. I don’t think anyone
can know unless you’ve been through it.
The other sites were Utah Beach, Gold Beach, Sword Beach and Juno Beach
The final place we visited was Pointe du Hoc, which
I had never even heard of before. It turned out to be a bunch of cliffs between
Omaha Beach and Utah Beach (another invasion point). During the D-Day invasion,
U.S. soldiers from the Ranger Assault Group scaled the 100-ft cliffs to take
out Germans who were shooting at the invading Allied forces. Apparently, almost
nothing went to plan during that assault, with reinforcements landing in the
wrong place, nasty weather and the loss of the element of surprise. Yet despite
all this, the Allies still emerged victorious. What a story! We wove our way
through giant craters left by bombs, saw old machine gun nests and explored
underground concrete bunkers. It was really neat!
Faeth climbed down into a bomb crater
Lots of people only think of Paris when they think
of France, but there is so much more to the country than the Eiffel Tower or
Notre Dame. Places like the Pointe du Hoc and Omaha Beach are incredible pieces
of history that testify to the strength of the American spirit. I would much
rather stand where all those heroes stood than visit a roped-off painting in the
Louvre any day. These places are where heroes were born and heroes died, where
common men were uncommonly brave. These places are some of America’s greatest
and proudest memories.
U.S. soldiers climbed this to protect their comrades-in-arms
“The free men of the world are marching together to
victory. I have full confidence in your courage, devotion to duty, and skill in
battle. We will accept nothing less than full victory. Good luck, and let us
all beseech the blessings of Almighty God upon this great and noble
undertaking.” –General Dwight D. Eisenhower, giving the D-Day order
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