Thursday, August 1, 2013

Fighting on the beaches of Normandy

While many Americans don’t know a lot about World War II besides the Holocaust, Hitler and Hiroshima, almost every U.S. citizen can name the famous D-Day invasion on Normandy’s beaches. Faeth and I are both very interested in U.S. military history, so we were dying to visit Normandy when we arrived in France. Talking Jennifer into a girls’ weekend wasn’t very hard to do, and, after four hours of driving, we arrived in Normandy.

In case the background is a bit hazy, here are the basic details: Operation Overlord was the codename for the Allies’ invasion of northwestern Europe, with the hopes of driving Germans back to Germany and eventually winning the war. Operation Neptune was the assault phase of this plan, which started on D-Day. On June 6, 1944, the Allies launched the largest amphibious assault in the history of the world, with 160,000 troops from 11 countries (along with members of the French resistance) invading France by land, sea and air elements. Allied troops crossed the English Channel from Dover to invade the beaches of Normandy, France and win back precious beach territory that could be used for ports. By the end of the day, more than 12,000 Allied troops had been killed but the battle had been won. The invasion at D-Day went down in history as one of the greatest triumphs of WW2 and in American history, with men and women displaying incredible courage, ingenuity, determination and valor.

We visited the cemetery first. After seeing small, quiet cemeteries like the one in Belleau Wood and the one Geoff manages, it was strange to see a place so overrun with visitors. I guess in a way, that’s a good thing; people should come to honor the dead and remember their sacrifices. On the other hand, the cemetery felt more like a carnival than a memorial, with teenagers running around in skimpy outfits and groups laughing and joking amongst themselves. Bored sightseers seemed like they were just checking one more famous site of their international “to-do” list instead of reflecting on Normandy’s great cost. It was too crowded and noisy for me to easily stop and meditate on what I was seeing, those 9,000 white stone grave markers to commemorate all the heroes who had died for our freedom nearly 70 years ago.
 
More than 9,000 Americans are buried here

Then we visited Omaha Beach, one of the five main landing points of the invasion. Here, nearly 45,000 U.S. soldiers stormed through crashing waves, sandbars, machine gun fire and barbed-wire booty traps to reach the enemy. Nearly 3,000 of these soldiers were killed in action. When we arrived at the beach, it wasn’t quite what I expected. There were two monuments built to commemorate the Allied effort, but otherwise it just looked like a beach. People were running around in bathing suits, surfing and swimming. I suppose you can’t close off a whole beach in remembrance, but I’d feel strange frolicking around a site where 3,000 soldiers had died in bloody battle half a century ago. Looking out over the gray waves, we could see the hazy outline of England on the horizon. It must have been pretty intense to board a ship with your comrades, sail 20 miles in the dark early morning, and tumble out into the chilly ocean at 6:30 a.m. to run into hostile, unknown territory while all around you other soldiers were being mowed down. I don’t know what drives men to advance at that point, when death is all around you. I don’t think anyone can know unless you’ve been through it.

The other sites were Utah Beach, Gold Beach, Sword Beach and Juno Beach

The final place we visited was Pointe du Hoc, which I had never even heard of before. It turned out to be a bunch of cliffs between Omaha Beach and Utah Beach (another invasion point). During the D-Day invasion, U.S. soldiers from the Ranger Assault Group scaled the 100-ft cliffs to take out Germans who were shooting at the invading Allied forces. Apparently, almost nothing went to plan during that assault, with reinforcements landing in the wrong place, nasty weather and the loss of the element of surprise. Yet despite all this, the Allies still emerged victorious. What a story! We wove our way through giant craters left by bombs, saw old machine gun nests and explored underground concrete bunkers. It was really neat!
 
Faeth climbed down into a bomb crater

Lots of people only think of Paris when they think of France, but there is so much more to the country than the Eiffel Tower or Notre Dame. Places like the Pointe du Hoc and Omaha Beach are incredible pieces of history that testify to the strength of the American spirit. I would much rather stand where all those heroes stood than visit a roped-off painting in the Louvre any day. These places are where heroes were born and heroes died, where common men were uncommonly brave. These places are some of America’s greatest and proudest memories.

U.S. soldiers climbed this to protect their comrades-in-arms

“The free men of the world are marching together to victory. I have full confidence in your courage, devotion to duty, and skill in battle. We will accept nothing less than full victory. Good luck, and let us all beseech the blessings of Almighty God upon this great and noble undertaking.” –General Dwight D. Eisenhower, giving the D-Day order

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