Getting to Barcelona was a head ache and a half.
First, when we arrived at Catalyud, the main transportation hub closest to the
tiny town, the bus to Barcelona was full and the next one wouldn’t arrive in
the city until nearly midnight. The lady at the counter had sold us tickets for
the late bus without bothering to say that the early bus was full, which we
thankfully figured out before boarding. So we hurriedly flagged a cab
(actually, I begged one of the bus workers to do it—he couldn’t say no to a
crying American girl) and managed to make it to the train station, where we
were able to buy two tickets with our Eurail pass (finally!).
The train ride took about six hours, and the scenery
was gorgeous. When we finally arrived in the city, it wasn’t as big or intimidating
as lots of the cities we’d seen in the last eight weeks, but it was definitely
one of the warmest! It didn’t help than our cramped hostel room had no air
conditioning. But we didn’t stay in the room much—that’d be a waste of time in
a gorgeous city like Barcelona!
The first day, we visited Gaudi’s famous Sagrada
Familia. Gaudi started it back in 1882, but it’s still not done—the latest
projections are for 2040. It might have gotten finished sooner had Gaudi not
been run over in the middle of construction. The Spanish Civil War further
impeded the process, with arsonists trying to burn the building down. But even
half-done, it’s still breathtaking. You had to have the patience to stand in a
line that wound around the block (for once, we were okay paying for tickets
since they’re funding the continuing construction) and to weave past hundreds
of tourists snapping pictures, but it was totally worth it. When I walked
inside, I was overcome by the fantastical beauty that surrounded me. It didn’t
feel like a church so much—it was more like an art project, like Gaudi had asked,
“How can I use the skills I have to glorify my Creator?” The whole building
felt like a whimsical, heart-felt gift from a little kid to his dad—but on a
grand scale.
130 years down and 30 more to go!
I think my favorite parts were all the stained glass
windows. Gaudi had used all sorts of different colors, and they spilled into
the church like rainbows. Faeth and I paid the extra few euros to take the lift
to the top of one of the towers so we could see the panoramic view of
Barcelona. The corridors were extremely tight, so tight your shoulders would
almost brush the stones as you walked. I didn’t much mind that, except whenever
a tourist stopped ahead of us take pictures, we all had to stop. And some
people took forever to take pictures!
"Somewhere, over the rainbow..."
While we were in Barcelona, we also saw the
Barcelona Cathedral, which wasn’t quite as impressive (honestly, it was pretty
stuffy!), and tried to see the Museum of Catalan Music (though we decided not
to when we learned we had to pay for a private tour). But the most interesting
part was definitely our trip to the beach. The beach itself wasn’t that great.
We were looking forward to wading into the famous Mediterranean Sea, but
unfortunately, so were about 10,000 other people. Well, they weren’t so
interested in wading as tanning. We couldn’t even get to the shore, since there
were so many human bodies piled up in front of it (and many of the women
thought bikini tops weren’t all that important). So, after hiking the beach for some time, we decided to skip the afternoon swim.
But we still tried to hunt down Willy’s beachside
restaurant. It took a while, but finally a pharmacist was able to point us in
the right direction. When we found the restaurant, we discovered it was one of
the ritziest in the area. We had been given strict instructions to give the
shuttle driver’s note to only Willy himself, so we stubbornly held onto it
until he appeared. He was a loud, blustery, jolly old Spaniard who reminded me
a little of the mob bosses from 1930s black and white movies—and he was utterly
delighted to receive our note. It turns out, he and the shuttle driver hadn’t
seen each other in four years and didn’t have each other’s phone numbers, but
the shuttle driver had written his number on the note. Willy was so excited, he
invited me and Faeth back to his restaurant that evening for a party.
So we came back that evening, duly dressed up for a
night on the town. And he gave it to us! He remembered us right away when we
showed up, declaring, “My memory is good!” (He even sounded like a mobster!) He gave us one of the best tables, tucked
into the corner of the restaurant where we could watch the people walk by on
the street. We tried paella, one of Spain’s best-known dishes, and it was
delicious. If you’re going to try paella, try it at a beach town, where the
fish, crabs, oysters and mussels are fresh. There was enough food for four
people, but Faeth and I almost ate it all because it was so good. Willy kept
refilling our glasses with sangria as well, a tangy-sweet Spanish liquor. The
best surprise came at the end, when Willy told us the 60 euro meal was on the
house!
A night on the town
It was a great way to end the night and a great way
to end our 2-month trip across Europe. Of all the places we’ve seen and things
we’ve done overseas, our night with Willy stands out as one of my favorite
memories. Really, all the fancy buildings and breathtaking scenes don’t matter
without the people. People like Willy, Neil and Father Tommo are what made the
trip so memorable. Don’t forget that next time you’re in a new place—reach out
and make connections. You never know who you’ll meet!
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